Mad Men

Series Costume Design by

Janie Bryant (90 episodes, 2007-2015)
John A. Dunn (1 episode, 2007)

Series Costume and Wardrobe Department

Tiffany White Stanton costumer / assistant costume designer / co-costume designer /

costume production assistant /wardrobe production assistant /

costume assistant (92 episodes, 2007-2015)

Jennifer Ireland set costumer / key costumer (58 episodes, 2007-2012)
Kalen Dawson set costumer (40 episodes, 2012-2015)
Gilbert S. Hernandez set costumer (40 episodes, 2012-2015)
Tiger Curran costume assistant / wardrobe intern (35 episodes, 2008-2010)
Le Dawson costume supervisor / costumer / wardrobe supervisor

(34 episodes, 2007-2013)

Phoenix Mellow assistant costume designer / costume production assistant

(27 episodes, 2012-2015)

Felicia Leilani Jarvis set costumer (27 episodes, 2013-2015)
Henry Po tailor (27 episodes, 2013-2015)
Heather Carleton set costumer (26 episodes, 2007-2008)
Lorie Young set costumer (26 episodes, 2012-2013)
Jessica Dalager set costumer (24 episodes, 2013-2015)
Joanna Elizabeth Bradley tailor (21 episodes, 2007-2012)
Allison Leach assistant costume designer (19 episodes, 2007-2009)
Lynn Ollie set costumer / costumer (19 episodes, 2007-2009)
Antonina Lerch costume cutter/fitter (19 episodes, 2008-2009)
Christina Anthony key costumer / costume supervisor / set costumer

(19 episodes, 2009-2015)

Laura Frecon assistant costume designer (13 episodes, 2010)
Juan Lopez set costumer (13 episodes, 2010)
Lori Angelo set costumer (13 episodes, 2012)
Kathleen Coltman costume production assistant (13 episodes, 2013)
Beth Miller costume production assistant (13 episodes, 2013)
Michael Castellano costumer (12 episodes, 2007-2008)
Bud Clark costume supervisor (12 episodes, 2007)
Rachel Apatoff costume production assistant (12 episodes, 2014-2015)
Bertha Macias seamstress (12 episodes, 2014-2015)
Dagmarette Yen costume production assistant (12 episodes, 2014-2015)
Marilyn Madsen tailor (9 episodes, 2012)
Sahar Halabi set costumer (8 episodes, 2014-2015)
J.R. Hawbaker costumer (7 episodes, 2008)
Kimberly Nickerson costumer (6 episodes, 2007)
Kristine N. Haag costumer (6 episodes, 2008)
Grace Pyke costumer (6 episodes, 2013)
Hannah Jacobs costume production assistant (5 episodes, 2008)
Hayley Stuppel set costumer (5 episodes, 2014)
Steven Zimbelman key costumer (4 episodes, 2014-2015)
Stacy Horn costume supervisor (4 episodes, 2014)
Carol Quiroz key costumer (4 episodes, 2014)
Gelareh Khalioun set costumer (4 episodes, 2015)
Sadie Redinger key costumer (4 episodes, 2015)
Roger J. Forker costumer (3 episodes, 2010)
Daniel Grant North costume supervisor (3 episodes, 2014)
Valerie Manahan key costumer (2 episodes, 2013)
Gabriella Colbossa seamstress (2 episodes, 2014)
Dana Olinsky costume production assistant (2 episodes, 2014)
Kristi Wollnick costume production assistant (2 episodes, 2014)
Hilary Parkin costumer (2 episodes, 2015)
Sonya M. Andonov set costumer (1 episode, 2007)
Amy Andrews wardrobe supervisor (1 episode, 2007)
Megan Asbee wardrobe production assistant (1 episode, 2007)
Dain I. Kalas tailor (1 episode, 2007)
Lisa Padovani assistant costume designer (1 episode, 2007)
Paul A. Simmons Jr. wardrobe supervisor (1 episode, 2007)
Anton Schneider costumer (1 episode, 2010)
Pam Gossa set costumer: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)
Terri Laigo seamstress: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)
Mel Pang set costumer: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)
Lani Roberts seamstress: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)
Anne Ross set costumer: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)
Steven Stitt-Bergh set costumer: Hawaii crew (1 episode, 2013)


A drama about one of New York’s most prestigious ad agencies at the beginning of the 1960s, focusing on one of the firm’s most mysterious but extremely talented ad executives, Don Draper.

 

Stars:

Jon Hamm Don Draper
January Jones Betty Draper Francis
Elisabeth Moss Peggy Olson
John Slattery Roger Sterling
Jessica Paré Megan Draper
Vincent Kartheiser Pete Campbell
Christina Hendricks Joan Harris

 

CREATOR


Matthew Weiner

RELEASE DATE

juillet 19, 2007

 

Don Draper – the character

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The Clothes of Don Draper

Don Draper in White Dinner Jacket

Clothing directly allows Don to manipulate his external image. He uses them to shield himself from his environment, while they support his aura of authority. He is absolutely not a clothes horse,  rather choosing the same wardrobe staples that work for him: short brimmed hats, narrow lapels, skinny ties and white shirts. Though these fashion choices were the newest styles available after his return from Korea, Don has clearly stopped thinking about latest trends.

Don Draper in his Office

The costumes and suits for Mad Men were designed by Janie Bryant, who claims: “These guys were the elite of the elite. They all went to prep school  – they’re used to uniforms, jackets and ties, a buttoned-down look.” Also, the set designers were so focused on details that they did not display apples in the show because modern-day versions are too big to be considered and apple from the 1960′s. Based on these statement and insights, I expected a lot of attention to detail sartorially.

Don Draper’s Suits & Shirts

The suits were probably one of the biggest disappointments for in the show, in my opinion. Apparently, some of the garments were authentic sixties, but I think they were rather cheap looking and not actually what the New York ” Elite of the Elite” would have worn. For example, the fabrics are categorically too flimsy and thin. Back then, the 13 oz  weight was an absolute standard, even though synthetic fibers were used more heavily even in more upscale suits. The thin fabrics don’t drape well, and so you can often see Don with a gaping collar and ill-fitting sleeves and pants.

Don Draper in plaid sportscoat with white shirt

According to Bryant, she paid attention to the character showing some cuff, but to me that’s not a noteworthy highlight but an obvious expectation. Also, the buttons on the sleeves often do not feature button holes, not even sham ones. In the 1960′s, there were still custom tailors around and although mass produced suits were the norm, American Alpha males would have rarely worn suits without surgeon cuffs. Overall, the suits did not often look authentic to me (except in terms of the style) and I do own quite a few vintage 1960s garments. Right after the first season of Mad Men, one could purchase Mad Men suits from various retailers and currently, Brooks Brothers seems to have the licensing rights to it. These look very similar to the suits in the show, but of course, they are made of light weight fabrics and not 1960′s cloth. With prompting, Don will wear more interesting such as a plaid sportscoat, but he looks uncomfortable.
The shirts are often modern and were sourced from Brooks Brothers. The collar styles are all fairly classic and Don wears exclusively white shirts, even on the rare occasions he wears a sportscoat!

Don Draper and his children's teacher

Donald Draper’s Shoes

Throughout the show, we rarely get to see his black shoes. In the rare occasions, one can see that they are Norwegian Derby shoes without the split toe. This style is a little less formal than a black plain toe oxford, like Roger wears, but they still business appropriate.

Don Draper’s Accessories

Don wears genuine 1960′s accessories. Let’s start with the ties.

Don Draper’s Ties

All of Don’s ties are slim, and sometimes even very skinny. They range from ivy league club stripes to solids to satin with clocks. The colors are usually dark or muted and range from grey to black to blue, but you usually never see Don in a red tie. In regards to texture he prefers to wear plain weave or satin ties and only on rare occasions do you see twill or repp fabrics. Note that Don avoids the modern faux pas of the too-long tie; his ties are the appropriate length for his height that either skim the belt or fall slightly higher. A great source for ties that have the right length is Fort Belvedere, which offers ties in three different lengths.

All the ties seem to be very authentic, but it is not really difficult to source 1960s ties. Usually, the tie knots are simple four-in-hand knots without a dimple. The ties are usually kept in place with genuine tie bars, if worn at all, from the 1960′s.

Don Draper's Slim Belt in Mad Men

Don’s Belts

Don is clearly from the generation that wore belts instead of suspenders. He matches the belt with his black shoes and slim ties. This means the belt is very slim and not more than 1 ” wide. Today this size would be mostly categorized as a women’s belt. The buckles he mostly wears are typical sixties gold plated plaque buckles.

Don Draper Belt in Mad Men

 

The Don Draper Watch

During the first few seasons of Mad Men, it was never really clear what watch Don Draper was wearing. However as the seasons have progressed, it appears that Don’s watches change with his pay raises.

Omega Suveran or Elgin Galaxie; and Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

In season 3, we only get a glimpse of his watch but it was still not clear exactly which model Don wore. It looks similar to an Omega Suveran or a Elgin Galaxie. However, the first previous watch was made exclusively for the Swedish Market, and the latter does not have a 3 on the dial – but Don’s wristwatch clearly did. He definitely wore a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox at least once.

Rolex Explorer

Rolex Explorer

Later, it became obvious that he was also wearing a Rolex Explorer I. For a TV show so highly praised for its historical accuracy to the period, it was surprising to me to see Don Draper wear a 36mm Oyster Perpetual without a date. Unlike the Cadillac he bought, the Rolex Explorer is simply not something an American would have known about in 1964.  At the time, Rolex was pretty much unknown in the US and steel-bracelet watches were not in fashion for men of Don’s position.

Moreover, when he lights a cigarette, pours a drink, or browses through his  portfolio, it is clear that Don’s watch is a sapphire crystal (probably Ref. 114270 or something similar out of the 1990′s). However, Rolex did not introduce the sapphire until the 1970′s with their Beta Quartz and Presidential Day-Date models.

Don Draper Watch Omega Seamaster De Ville

Omega Seamaster De Ville

Another watch that was clearly visible on Don’s wrist was the Omega Seamaster De Ville with a date indicator and a black dial. With its  34mm diameter and an automatic caliber 562 or 563, it was considered as one of the better automatic caliber watches that Omega manufactured during the sixties.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Don Draper with a gold Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso

Personally, one of my favorite watches that made several appearances on the show was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. For those of you who are not familiar with this classic watch, the Reverso was originally introduced in 1931 as a Polo Watch. British Officers who played polo in India kept complaining about broken glasses on their wrist watches.

Gold Reverso and Cufflinks Don Draper in Mad Men Season 3

Therefore, the watch importer César de Trey informed the manufacturer Jacques-David LeCoultre of the difficulty. In collaboration with his Partner Jaeger and the engineer René-Alfred Chauvot, the Reverso was developed. The rectangular design allowed the wearer to flip the dial so it was protected during the game. The patent was filed on March 4th, 1931, and shortly thereafter, the watch was manufactured. Despite its sporty character, it soon became popular with all kinds men around the world.

Interestingly, after Don Draper is promoted in season 2 of Mad Men, he upgrades from a silver to a gold Reverso. In February 2012, Jaeger LeCoultre released a limited edition Mad Men Reverso that can be seen here.

Don Draper Sunglasses by Randolph Engineering

Don Draper’ Sunglasses

In the show, Don Draper wears the Aviator model from Randolph Engineering Sunglasses. We tested the RE Sportsman sunglasses in the past, we can safely say that the workmanship is excellent, in addition to the spot-on accuracy of the style. The squarer shape of the lens clearly complements Jon Hamm’s angular features.

Don in Sportscoat and gold cufflinsk with blue stone

 

Cufflinks of Don

Don wears his white, double cuffed shirts with genuine 1960′s cufflinks. Generally, the cuff jewelry back then was larger than it is today and the styling is typical for the era. Don wears flat, rectangular, matte silver cuff links or rounded triangulars in gold. Also, he wears stones in black or even blue with his sportscoat in Rome.

Pocket Squares

Part of the Mad Men Look is, of course, the pocket square, though Don does not always wear one. If so, it is a white linen of cotton square that has always worn in the standard TV fold.

Don Draper Zippo Lighter

 

Zippo Lighter

As a passionate smoker, Don Draper trusts his Zippo lighter.

The accessories that were chosen for Don match his character and are mostly plain and simple.

 

 

How to Create The 1960′s Don Draper Mad Men Look

Mad Men Suit Authenticity: Things done well

  • I. Narrow Lapels
  • II. Some shoulder padding
  • III. Tapered jacket waist
  • IV. Business colors – grey, blue, charcoal
  • V. Narrowly cut trousers that taper to the ankle without a break
  • VI. Use of authentic tie bars and cufflinks
  • VII.Aviator Sunglasses

Clothes of Roger Sterling in Mad Men

Almost all of the suits Roger wears in Mad Men are 3-piece suits with pleated, cuffless trousers. The double breasted suit aside, the classic three-piece suit is as dressed up as one can get before encroaching on evening wear, and it’s well suited to his egotistical personality. Given his age, Roger is more set in his ways, and is unlikely to appreciate the style direction the 60’s has taken. The fabrics he chooses are all rooted in business attire, and range from light gray worsteds, navy serge and charcoal shadow stripes to fine pin striped suitings. Outside of the office, he usually wears a hat paired with a topcoat and  classic black oxford shoes. Throughout the show, his shirts are almost exclusively plain white –an affinity shared by most of the male characters.

Inside the Car

Within the range of clothing items that Roger deems acceptable to his image, he demonstrates much more willingness to play with different style components. For example, you can see him in various shirts collars, with or without a collar bar, various ties and accessories such as flat, golden wrist watches, pinky finger rings and cuff links. His ties, while not overly wide, are never as narrow as Don Draper’s ties and are much more classic at about 7 or 8 cm in width. Also, he wears varying pocket square fabrics and folds – crowned, flat or simply puffed. His favorite accessory is obviously the cigarette, with a close second being the lowball glass.

Despite his attention to detail, he commits the occasional faux pas that seems more attributable to the costume designer than it is to his character’s choice. Sometimes, you can spot him wearing a tacky matching tie and pocket square combination that a man of his confidence would not need to stoop to wearing. Even worse, you can often see him wearing a belt underneath his vest, which causes it to bunch up and reveal the low rise of the pants and a usually-hidden puff of shirt fabric.

Bert Cooper in Argyle Socks & Roger Sterling

He always wears single breasted coats with notched lapels, typically with 3 buttons. His matching waistcoats are likewise single breasted and he always follows the rule of leaving the bottom waistcoat button unbuttoned. But let’s take a detailed look at one of Roger’s outfits:

Here, Roger wears a shadow-striped, charcoal suit with white shirt, beige and black dotted tie, with a matching pocket square and cuff links. Instead of pick stitching and real buttonholes, the coat features a machine sewn edge and 4 cuff buttons. While this was in fact seen in 1960’s upscale suits, as Roger would have worn them, they would have had proper pick stitching and hand sewn buttonholes.

Roger Sterling Details

The charcoal shadow stripe socks are combined with black half brogue oxfords that don’t seem to fit him particularly well. Also, if you pay attention to the way his shoes are laced up, you notice that neither of his shoes are laced up in the proper oxford pattern of parallel lines. Amazingly, both shoes have a different pacing pattern! Considering this is a classic outfit, no business man in his right mind would have laced his shoes in two different ways.

Roger Sterling Oxford Shoes

This lacing pattern occurs throughout the Mad Men seasons, which makes me believe they only had him wear a single pair of shoes throughout the entire show!  Suffice to say, you should always rotate your shoes in order to get more wear out of them and of course, for the sake of elegance, it’s desireable to have a variety of shoe patterns. Having only one pair of go-to shoes – even if they are a versatile classic such as Roger’s black oxfords – still creates an ongoing compromise of style. They will never be a perfect match for all outfits, and it seems unlikely that a man who appreciates his accessories in the way Roger does would only wear one pair of shoes.

Overall, Roger Sterling is an important character in Mad Men. He has some of the best lines lines and his character is well supported by his wardrobe, with the exception of his shoe and belt selection.

Betty Draper Francis’s clothing/Fashion Style

Betty Francis personifies the phrase « drop dead gorgeous; » she looks glamorous in everything from jockey attire to a pink negligee. Betty’s beautiful floral print dresses and matching head bands, sophisticated hair styles, high waisted pants, fur coats, smart stilettos and crimson lips inspire even the wrinkliest couch potato with awe! This season Betty has been moving away from her signature floral print dresses toward slim, more conservative suits. Perhaps Betty is adapting to her new life as the wife of politician Henry Francis, or perhaps this new look represents a lady who is finally starting to find her independence. Regardless, we can’t wait to see what new style surprises Betty’s got up her sleeve this season. Betty has surprised everyone with sudden and unexplained changes. Her weight gain and dyed-black hair was her oddest of style choices. She was going for the Elizabeth Taylor-look and ended up resembling Henry’s mother.

 

 

 

 

http://www.amctv.com/mad-men/videos/fashion-and-style-episode-705-mad-men-the-runaways

Elisabeth Moss

elisabeth-moss-mad-men-tv-series-season-7-promo-stills_1Peggy Olson : Olson rises from being Draper’s secretary to being a copywriter with her own office.

She becomes pregnant with Pete Campbell’s child, a pregnancy that neither she nor her family or coworkers seem to notice, until she goes to the emergency room due to illness, and they tell her she is in labor. While he rarely acknowledges it, Don appreciates Peggy’s abilities, leading him to choose her to go with him to Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. She is given more freedom to come up with her own creative advertising ideas, with Don always pushing her to be better. During Season 5, Peggy feels increasingly unappreciated and patronized by Draper. In the episode « The Other Woman », she leaves SCDP to accept an offer to become head copywriter at Cutler, Gleason, and Chaough, though the agency merges with SCDP in Season 6, which once again places her under Draper’s leadership. In the final season, she transitions to the McCann Erickson agency and eventually finds her true feelings for Stan Rizzo.



Christina Hendricks

ChristinaHendricks as JoanJoan Harris : Office manager and head of the secretarial pool at Sterling Cooper. She had a long-term affair with Roger Sterling until his two heart attacks (Season 1) cause him to end the relationship. In Season 2, she becomes engaged to Dr. Greg Harris (Samuel Page). By Season 3, they are married and at Greg’s request Joan quits her job at Sterling Cooper. Their marriage is tested when Greg’s lack of skill as a surgeon and consequent difficulties securing work force Joan to return to work at a department store, prompting her to call Roger Sterling to ask for his help in finding an office job.

Because of her invaluable organizational and managerial skills, she is later hired for the new agency formed by Don, Roger, Bert, and Lane. While her husband is deployed, Joan and Roger have one sexual encounter, which results in her becoming pregnant. Joan initially decides to terminate the pregnancy, but changes her mind and gives birth shortly before the beginning of Season 5, with her husband unaware he is not the father.

By the close of Season 5, Joan has become a full partner at SCDP in exchange for agreeing to sleep with a Jaguar executive to help land the account.



January Jones

180f2c79-cdfd-eb86-42ce-7e5c5e98f78b_Kitchen_00771.jpgBetty Draper Francis was born in Cape May, New Jersey where her family summered and raised in grew up in Lower Merion, Pennsylvania, a suburb of Philadelphia. She graduated from Bryn Mawr College in 1954 with an Anthropology degree, and briefly modeled in Italy before moving to Manhattan. It was during this time that she met Don Draper when he was a copywriter for a fur company. Betty and Don lived in Ossining with their 2 children Sally Draper and Robert Draper. In the spring of 1960, Betty started to see a psychiatrist because of repeated spells of numbness in her hands. In combination with psychosocial stressors and the exclusion of a neurological cause, it seems likely that Betty was experiencing Conversion Disorder. It was during these meetings that, after having discovered that the psychiatrist was giving reports of her sessions to Don, she either admitted, or to « test the waters, » threw out the suspicion that she knew of her husband’s infidelities.

In Spring of 1963, she gives birth to Eugene Scott Draper, whom she names after her father.

After President Kennedy’s death and Margaret Sterling’s wedding, Betty meets with Henry Francis, who confesses to her that he wishes to eventually marry her. They passionately kiss, and after the encounter, Betty returns home to tell Don she no longer loves him, leaving him stunned and distraught.



Jessica Paré

Jessica PareMegan Calvet is Don Draper’s wife and worked at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. Born in Montreal, she was formerly the front desk receptionist.

Megan’s life takes an abrupt turn when she jumps from being Don’s secretary to his wife. She challenges Don, demanding accountability and openness. When Megan decides to leave her unfulfilling position at the ad agency to pursue her dream of acting, Don feels rejected and begins to pull away. Megan shifts her attention to her career, moving to Hollywood in hopes of becoming a TV star, and by the time Don offers to join her in California to save their marriage, she realizes it is time to stand on her own.



Jon Hamm

Donald 680x478 is certainly a multifaceted character – confident yet tortured, direct yet secretive. Like most of us, his external image doesn’t match his internal view of himself. He fights to strike a balance between living the way he wants and living the way it is easiest for him – which speaks to his very human desire to conquer his weaknesses. It seems like he often tries his best, but eventually he has to give in. This is especially true for women. Especially in the early episodes, he sleeps with almost every attractive woman that crosses his path, and even when he is torn in his dreams he usually gives in to his lust. His new wife Megan seems to have drawn out Don’s earnest desire to have a real relationship, and put his wandering ways behind him. Whether Don can successfully continue on this path is less certain.

Obviously, Don is a successful, self-made Mad Man who worked his way up. He is still involved in creative work landing contracts with major companies. In client situations, he does a superb job of emphatically analyzing what his client needs and demands, which is probably his key to success. Ironically, he does not seem to understand at all what his family needs or wants, at least in the past.

When he is upset or irritated, he often acts very impulsively. For example, he publishes a letter in the New York Times bashing the cigarette industry after Lucky Strike jumps ship, without consulting with his partners beforehand. On the one hand, this lands him a nomination from the lung cancer society and industry wide respect, but on the other hand big companies cautiously avoid entering new contracts with him, because they fear he might turn against them in case they split ways eventually.

Don is also concerned about his perception by others. He never wants to look weak and he enjoys being in charge. In order to maintain this facade, he is secretive and never asks for help-  even his first wife did never knew during their marriage who he really was. Of course, the point is that we all see a little bit of Don Draper in ourselves – without the extremes. And while Don is touted as being a modern style icon, I can honestly say that while he wears his clothing well, I’m certain that the readers of the Gentleman’s Gazette know how to dress better. How’s that for confidence?



John Slattery

S6_Roger_(01)Roger Sterling

At the onset of the show, Don is Sterling’s employee, but he eventually rises to his equal at the new firm Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. The two characters share many similarities – ambition, panache, and of course a penchant for women who are not their wives – but sartorially speaking, it’s clear that Don and Roger come from two different style generations.

In 1965, Don is 40 and was too young to fight in WWII. Roger, a WWII vet, is certainly older, though his white hair can be misleading – actor John Slattery Jr. is only 50 years old. Regardless of his exact age, Roger became an adult in the late 20’s and 30’s, while Don would have formed his early style preferences in the 40’s and 50’s. It seems that after suffering as an adult during the depression, Roger has an appreciation for fine things, and as such he chooses a three-piece suit to be his signature combination. Having inherited his role at the firm and the now-defunct legacy account of Lucky Strike cigarettes from his father, Roger has never really had to do much around the office.

He clearly has some entitlement issues, which often manifest themselves in the form of sarcasm, crudeness, and overindulgence. Roger has yet to really learn from a mistake, and his choice of dress acts as the façade of his all-show and no-action behavior.



Vincent Kartheiser

petePete Campbell 

Perennial dissatisfaction fuels both Pete’s ambition and his success as an account man, as well as his failures as a husband. His old-money parents disapprove of his career choice, and Pete feels similarly unappreciated at work, no matter his level of success. While he can always count on his wife Trudy to offer support and counsel, Pete’s resentment for having moved to the suburbs gives him an excuse to cheat. Pete begins his career attempting blackmail and subterfuge to get ahead, but instead finds success through loyalty to Don and forward thinking business acumen. With his marriage beyond repair, Pete moves to California to help open the firm’s West Coast office. While he attempts to embrace the laid back California lifestyle, Pete finds again that he only feels at home in New York.



cinema passionate, fashion addict, curious, enthusiastic.

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